nigelphoto
New Member
I have a very old Tom Tom One which I want to be able to run on my bike as well as the car. I have read somewhere that it requires 5v feed not 12v - is a cigarette lighter socket the only way I can do this?
Sat Nav advice please
- Thread starter nigelphoto
- Start date
I've used these. Lots of styles to chose from but make sure its at least 15W
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... +&_sacat=0
Iv'e used this where I needed a straight connector
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QZO-12V-to-5V ... 1e7b7b279f
And for a right angled on this...
Make sure it angles in the correct direction
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Convert ... 4abf6b0658
Probably not the sellers I used but the goods look the same.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... +&_sacat=0
Iv'e used this where I needed a straight connector
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QZO-12V-to-5V ... 1e7b7b279f
And for a right angled on this...
Make sure it angles in the correct direction
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Convert ... 4abf6b0658
Probably not the sellers I used but the goods look the same.
Philwhiskeydrinker
Well-Known Member
jasonbc said:
Same here, powered various TomTom 'navs via a ciggy plug/mini usb charger, no probs - as long as the socket is one of the half hearted lockable ones that prevents the plug working its way out.
sent from my 'phone
nigelphoto
New Member
Boris said:
I've ordered one of these, what amps in-line glass fuse do I need? Not good with electrics, screwing (err - nuts and bolts) more my scene.
nigelphoto said:
Its 15W (which is a measure of power) so to determine the current needed to deliver that power simply device the maximum power deliverable by the unit by the voltage.
So 15W at 12V (Which is the side that the fuse is on) is 1.25A but as far as fuses are concern give it a bit of an overhead to cover losses in the voltage conversion process so 3A would be sufficient. If the donor circuit is already fused at a low value I'd just cut the new fuse off (so I could cut the cable to a suitable length for neatness) and rely on the fuse that protects the donor circuit.
Of course you will need to plumb this into a switched live supply as it will draw a tiny bit of current even when the satnav isn't plugged in. Factor on an additional one amp load on the circuit you choose so in reality just about any circuit such as horn, indicators, position light, tail light etc would suit.
nigelphoto
New Member
Boris said:
Thanks mate, all advice very welcome. Will get 3A fuse as I am intending to wire off secondary supply direct from battery and with a switch in-line to turn off when I am not using the satnav, or is this THE WRONG WAY to do it?!!
nigelphoto said:
if you're going down that route I'd use a relay instead of a switch, that way you can't forget to switch it off
nigelphoto said:
It's not the way I would do it as it introduces unnecessary clutter and you will forget to switch it off when you put it away in the garage for a week or so. Just find a switched circuit that is nearby and accessible and use that. The wire is pretty long and should reach back under the seat if it has to.. I suppose it depends how neat you want to be as you will always find good supplies up the front of the bike if you are prepared to poke around a bit. I do like using the fan supply if I need a few amps as it's often switched independently at the keyswitch and is well isolated from the rest of the bikes electrics but you will need to fit an inline fuse as the fan will probably be fused at 15A or so. In this case though I'd just look at the side light or supply to the front brake light switch and use them. No additional fuse needed.
Just make sure if you do splice it in to existing wires to solder it and don't use these crappy crimp connectors (or worse just twist the wires together and tape) Cover the soldered joint with heatshrink (or tape at a push) and it will last a lifetime. Anything else will cause you (or someone else) problems one day down the line.
Heatshrink also makes a good cap to protect the end of the cable from rain when the satnav is not fitted and the bike is left parked up outside
Philwhiskeydrinker
Well-Known Member
You may aswell just pick up a switched live 
sent from my 'phone
sent from my 'phone
jasonbc
New Member
Ian Porter said:
Thats what i did on my varadero, i used a relay and used the odometer power ( to make it ignition live only) to switch the coil on the relay then did away with the socket and cut the plug off the tomtom charger and just soldered the wires to the relay and earth.
nigelphoto
New Member
Two weeks on and I'm still waiting for the ebay 12v/5v driver coming from China (on a slow boat) so in the meantime I dug out an old orienteering map pocket to use. Being a plastic tank on the F650 a magnetic one won't work; a piece of cord around the yoke with a carib on one end holds the front and the blue bungy at the back tucks under the tank fixing bolt and springs off when I want to add 15 litres of Shell's V-power. Simples.
Nice ting about paper maps when compared to sat nags is you have some awareness of the surroundings and route. I prefer the map approach with ths sat nav to locate the final detail of a location.
Ps, why Did you need a map to get to that Hell Hole? Birmingham is signposted well enough.
Ps, why Did you need a map to get to that Hell Hole? Birmingham is signposted well enough.
nigelphoto
New Member
Traveller said:
I was going to the pub at Norbury Junction on the Shropshire Union canal, not Brum!! Had a great ride out, lovely sunny day and a bit of a thrash with a Suzuki (??) something - not sure what model as it was all enclosed fairing and I don't bother too much with sports bikes.