Balkans and more 2023
- Thread starter austin
- Start date
austin
Well-Known Member
Aah right. Now in North Macedonia.
First though a few words about Greece, well the mountains mainly. It’s fabulous country. Who knew Greece was such a mountainous, green and verdant place. Sure there’s an areas of boring countryside but we’ve been through some amazing places. We were on the middle of the three peninsulars in the Peloponnese. The mountains come right down to the sea which clear and blue when the sun shines. Peaks are 4000feer+ with steep valleys and roads that twist and turn in a seemingly never ending series of curves, hairpins and steep hills. Great biking country. Great views of mountains tumbling into sea. Pretty little villages hugging the coast with great tavernas with fish by the kg. Almost a charicature of Greek life.
Then there’s the north. Bigger wilder and ever more impressive. Vikos canyon around 1000m deep and not much wider the crown in a huge wilderness area. Bears and wolves here. Fabulous and we even had a nice warm day to view it all.
Then a very very wet day with filthy rain and over two mountain ranges with roads topping out at 5259 feet and 8c headed for Macedonia. We aren’t geared for hours in the saddle in these conditions so going slowly certainly seemed to make it feel warmer. Macedonia border was straightforward enough and the green card I blagged from Bennett’s insurance worked. Saved €60 on border insurance. Only two nights scheduled in Macedonia which is a shame as it’s nice, cheap, and very friendly people. When we rocked up at where the sat Nav said our accommodation was (it wasn’t) we had loads of offers of help. Help which just continues to keep coming including free coffee while we sat out a thunderstorm at a petrol station today. Mind, I’ve picked up the squits somewhere so depending how tonight goes we may have sn enforced third night in Macedonia.
Next proper stop is Motocamp Bulgaria and the long range weather forecast suggests an end to the cool wet airstream we’ve been under for the past 4 weeks. Although I see Italy has had some tremendous flooding. I hope it’s avoided Tony’s lot and also doesn’t head this way.
A few pics I hope (broadband speed is dire here so it may be a day or two)
The other thing about Greece is that it’s really easy to travel around. Nearly everyone is bilingual, most signage is bilingual. Cards payment is routinely accepted, there’s coffee houses and tavernas everywhere. Roads mostly good. It’s relatively cheap for euro land. And apart from just now it has a wonderful climate in spring. There’s not a lot to dislike about the place. Not too difficult to get to either with ferries from several ports in Italy.
First though a few words about Greece, well the mountains mainly. It’s fabulous country. Who knew Greece was such a mountainous, green and verdant place. Sure there’s an areas of boring countryside but we’ve been through some amazing places. We were on the middle of the three peninsulars in the Peloponnese. The mountains come right down to the sea which clear and blue when the sun shines. Peaks are 4000feer+ with steep valleys and roads that twist and turn in a seemingly never ending series of curves, hairpins and steep hills. Great biking country. Great views of mountains tumbling into sea. Pretty little villages hugging the coast with great tavernas with fish by the kg. Almost a charicature of Greek life.
Then there’s the north. Bigger wilder and ever more impressive. Vikos canyon around 1000m deep and not much wider the crown in a huge wilderness area. Bears and wolves here. Fabulous and we even had a nice warm day to view it all.
Then a very very wet day with filthy rain and over two mountain ranges with roads topping out at 5259 feet and 8c headed for Macedonia. We aren’t geared for hours in the saddle in these conditions so going slowly certainly seemed to make it feel warmer. Macedonia border was straightforward enough and the green card I blagged from Bennett’s insurance worked. Saved €60 on border insurance. Only two nights scheduled in Macedonia which is a shame as it’s nice, cheap, and very friendly people. When we rocked up at where the sat Nav said our accommodation was (it wasn’t) we had loads of offers of help. Help which just continues to keep coming including free coffee while we sat out a thunderstorm at a petrol station today. Mind, I’ve picked up the squits somewhere so depending how tonight goes we may have sn enforced third night in Macedonia.
Next proper stop is Motocamp Bulgaria and the long range weather forecast suggests an end to the cool wet airstream we’ve been under for the past 4 weeks. Although I see Italy has had some tremendous flooding. I hope it’s avoided Tony’s lot and also doesn’t head this way.
A few pics I hope (broadband speed is dire here so it may be a day or two)
The other thing about Greece is that it’s really easy to travel around. Nearly everyone is bilingual, most signage is bilingual. Cards payment is routinely accepted, there’s coffee houses and tavernas everywhere. Roads mostly good. It’s relatively cheap for euro land. And apart from just now it has a wonderful climate in spring. There’s not a lot to dislike about the place. Not too difficult to get to either with ferries from several ports in Italy.
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austin
Well-Known Member
Since the last post the squits got worse before I began to feel better. We left Macedonia aiming for Plovdiv in Bulgaria but I got to feeling worse and worse so headed for Sofia and a room we could get into early. It was cold and wet and busy round roadworks building a tram system and one of the worst couple of hours. I was shaking with cold and could hardly stand. Into bed at 3pm with Paracetamol and a roll of toilet paper, although I mostly slept until 8am feeling loads better.
A shortish day got us to Motocamp Bulgaria for two nights and my request for a room close to the toilet got us the posh house to ourselves. Pricey for Bulgaria but worth it.
Motocamp is a cool place. One other Brit - Glynn - on a HD heading for a Harley rally in Igoumenista in Greece, a Canadian couple nearly a year into a tour of Europe on an F800 and an F650 respectively. A couple of Germans and half a dozen Croatians - who smoked like bloody chimneys. Phil and Laura who some may know and I’ve met once are expats who live in the village also dropped by for a chat.
One more night in the north of Bulgaria saw us cross into Serbia early. Well what an unexpected contrast. Where Bulgaria is somewhat shabby and grubby needing some money spent on it, Serbia is smart clean neat and tidy. At the first town we came across we turned in for some cash and what a nice place. Coffee in a cool place with a nice vibe. Cheap too. Overnight in a boutique hotel - coz we could afford it - and we decided to aim for Montenegro as it was so close. It meant only one night in Serbia but Montenegro proved so worth it.
the whole of Montenegro is picturesque. You get blasé to it though. But Durmitor National Park was just stunning. Big peaks of limestone, gorges, dry valleys and more. Yorkshire Dales after a spell on steroids. Two days here but thundery downpours in the afternoons literally put a damper on things. For a euro currency country it’s cheap here. Modest apartment for two nights was €50; three beers, two mixed grills, chips salad and a glass of wine was €22. Happy days.
Then down,and literally down from 5,000 to sea level, to the coast for a couple of nights at a Boho chic campsite. Boho chic in this case meant Communist era holiday camp in dire need of renovation. It had it charm as well as its Mozzies. Warm and humid now and still dogged by thundery storms in the afternoon.
Then onto the north of Montenegro via the south side of Lake Skoder and yet more jaw droppingly good views before turning into Lake Kotor - actually an arm of the sea. I’ve run out of superlatives but feck me it’s pretty. Road right along the sea with tavernas, villas and houses on and over the sea. Swimming platforms and a gorgeous mountain backdrop. We called in at a place which offered camping in the garden or rooms. A big but a bit drab room with access to a sitting room kitchen bathroom garden was €20. We took the room.
Today after a short ferry across the “lake” we soon crossed into Bosnia and a couple of hours later here we are in Mostar. Bosnia is good so far.
Pics later v
A shortish day got us to Motocamp Bulgaria for two nights and my request for a room close to the toilet got us the posh house to ourselves. Pricey for Bulgaria but worth it.
Motocamp is a cool place. One other Brit - Glynn - on a HD heading for a Harley rally in Igoumenista in Greece, a Canadian couple nearly a year into a tour of Europe on an F800 and an F650 respectively. A couple of Germans and half a dozen Croatians - who smoked like bloody chimneys. Phil and Laura who some may know and I’ve met once are expats who live in the village also dropped by for a chat.
One more night in the north of Bulgaria saw us cross into Serbia early. Well what an unexpected contrast. Where Bulgaria is somewhat shabby and grubby needing some money spent on it, Serbia is smart clean neat and tidy. At the first town we came across we turned in for some cash and what a nice place. Coffee in a cool place with a nice vibe. Cheap too. Overnight in a boutique hotel - coz we could afford it - and we decided to aim for Montenegro as it was so close. It meant only one night in Serbia but Montenegro proved so worth it.
the whole of Montenegro is picturesque. You get blasé to it though. But Durmitor National Park was just stunning. Big peaks of limestone, gorges, dry valleys and more. Yorkshire Dales after a spell on steroids. Two days here but thundery downpours in the afternoons literally put a damper on things. For a euro currency country it’s cheap here. Modest apartment for two nights was €50; three beers, two mixed grills, chips salad and a glass of wine was €22. Happy days.
Then down,and literally down from 5,000 to sea level, to the coast for a couple of nights at a Boho chic campsite. Boho chic in this case meant Communist era holiday camp in dire need of renovation. It had it charm as well as its Mozzies. Warm and humid now and still dogged by thundery storms in the afternoon.
Then onto the north of Montenegro via the south side of Lake Skoder and yet more jaw droppingly good views before turning into Lake Kotor - actually an arm of the sea. I’ve run out of superlatives but feck me it’s pretty. Road right along the sea with tavernas, villas and houses on and over the sea. Swimming platforms and a gorgeous mountain backdrop. We called in at a place which offered camping in the garden or rooms. A big but a bit drab room with access to a sitting room kitchen bathroom garden was €20. We took the room.
Today after a short ferry across the “lake” we soon crossed into Bosnia and a couple of hours later here we are in Mostar. Bosnia is good so far.
Pics later v
austin
Well-Known Member
She is indeed. She was telling us of her “urb-ex” adventures. Basically breaking into legacy communist buildings, underground bunkers, former military & nuclear stuff etc et and filming it for urb-ex forums. She is apparently a legend in Bulagaria and beyond for it. She’s a nutter as some of the stuff she was telling us about was bloody dangerous. You know guards with guns n stuff.Phil and Laura (aka bonniebird) , they're a pair of characters
austin
Well-Known Member
Home today all safe and sound. But we’ve done a lot since the last post. So, highlights….
Montenegro via a small mountain road and across the border into Bosnia. Bosnia…. Not at all what I was expecting. It’s a modern smart European country. Great roads, buildings, nice people, good cafes, bars and restaurants. It’s all neat and tidy and I can’t say I saw any sign of the 1990,s war. Best value room, well suite really, we’ve had was in Mostar:€20 for a big room 5 mins from the old Bridge, balcony with view, breakfast terrace, hall, big bathroom and the best bidet ever. It made us both giggle. Next stop north Bosnia and a stupidly expensive Motel as we couldn’t find wifi to find anything better or cheaper.
Across to Croatia near lake Plitvice - we’ve been before so avoided it and across the hills to the coast and up a bit to a big campsite Anne fancied for a 4 day holiday just lazing about eating and drinking. The weather since Bosnia now much improved.
Croatia-Slovenia-Italy for a night in a hostel in the Dolomites. For once we go the timing just right and managed to be unloading the bike as the Thunder and lightning started and the heavens opened. It sheeted down with rain all night and luckily the hostel had a half decent restaurant attached. But 30 seconds run each way in the heavy rain and we were soaked through.
Italy - Austria -Germany. Wet start but drying out into a nice warm day. Tauren tunnel was good then great quality Austrian valley bottom roads with a sensible 100kph speed limit for a change saw good progress into Germany. Campsite had a beer garden, which was good. We stayed south in Germany/Bavaria for our Second night camping in Germany in the Black Forest area. The weather now hot.
Short and slow day to a lovely campsite in the Alsace area of France. The campsite was a random pick off google maps at a mid afternoon stop. I was keeping my sons up to date with our progress and despite not mentioning exactly where we were son #2 said that just sounds like Camping Les Bois du Joli. Which it was. Next second he sends a picture he took when he camped here last year and we were pitched in the exact same spot, and I mean literally exactly the same place. I didn’t know he’d been here before. Spooky or what.
We’d pre booked our last night before the tunnel a couple of days earlier so had plenty of time for the last proper day abroad. Lots of back roads made for slow but interesting progress and we eventually arrived via a long French lunch and a supermarket for Sangliere sausage (wild boar) and some other bits for tea. It was an equestrian farm with a couple of gorgeous rooms. The horsey bit passed us both by but the rest of it had that lovely casual stylish rural French style that evolves rather gets created. We didn’t want to leave.
Last proper day and we had a rare motorway ride all the way up to the tunnel. It was only 120miles - so two hours ish on the motorway or something daft like 5 hours non-motorway according to the Nav. Slow roads indeed.
We managed an earlier tunnel than booked and rocked up at our friends in Dorking, Surrey mid afternoon for beers and food. We decided to stay an extra night and accompany them on the Surrey Artists Open studio tour - basically a long long walk around Dorking visiting local artists studios. Very enjoyable as there’s also lots of pubs in Dorking.
Saturday (today) and a hot ride up the M40 and M6. Ironically this was the hottest day of the trip with the temperature topping out at 29c on the bike’s thermometer most of the way up a very busy M6.
I forgot to note the mileage but about 6500 to 7000 miles. 14 countries incl England. Average fuel 60.9mpg. Average speed : slow. Motorway miles under 1000 and mostly in the uk too. Nights camped 14. Nights away 54. The bill, dunno yet but it should an average out to about £80-£90 a day all in for us both. The Greece and the Balkans were mostly cheap except Croatia which is on a par with Italy and Germany for costs.
It was a great trip and I thoroughly recommend all the Balkan countries to anyone.
Pics tomorrow as I think I’m going to bed shortly.
Montenegro via a small mountain road and across the border into Bosnia. Bosnia…. Not at all what I was expecting. It’s a modern smart European country. Great roads, buildings, nice people, good cafes, bars and restaurants. It’s all neat and tidy and I can’t say I saw any sign of the 1990,s war. Best value room, well suite really, we’ve had was in Mostar:€20 for a big room 5 mins from the old Bridge, balcony with view, breakfast terrace, hall, big bathroom and the best bidet ever. It made us both giggle. Next stop north Bosnia and a stupidly expensive Motel as we couldn’t find wifi to find anything better or cheaper.
Across to Croatia near lake Plitvice - we’ve been before so avoided it and across the hills to the coast and up a bit to a big campsite Anne fancied for a 4 day holiday just lazing about eating and drinking. The weather since Bosnia now much improved.
Croatia-Slovenia-Italy for a night in a hostel in the Dolomites. For once we go the timing just right and managed to be unloading the bike as the Thunder and lightning started and the heavens opened. It sheeted down with rain all night and luckily the hostel had a half decent restaurant attached. But 30 seconds run each way in the heavy rain and we were soaked through.
Italy - Austria -Germany. Wet start but drying out into a nice warm day. Tauren tunnel was good then great quality Austrian valley bottom roads with a sensible 100kph speed limit for a change saw good progress into Germany. Campsite had a beer garden, which was good. We stayed south in Germany/Bavaria for our Second night camping in Germany in the Black Forest area. The weather now hot.
Short and slow day to a lovely campsite in the Alsace area of France. The campsite was a random pick off google maps at a mid afternoon stop. I was keeping my sons up to date with our progress and despite not mentioning exactly where we were son #2 said that just sounds like Camping Les Bois du Joli. Which it was. Next second he sends a picture he took when he camped here last year and we were pitched in the exact same spot, and I mean literally exactly the same place. I didn’t know he’d been here before. Spooky or what.
We’d pre booked our last night before the tunnel a couple of days earlier so had plenty of time for the last proper day abroad. Lots of back roads made for slow but interesting progress and we eventually arrived via a long French lunch and a supermarket for Sangliere sausage (wild boar) and some other bits for tea. It was an equestrian farm with a couple of gorgeous rooms. The horsey bit passed us both by but the rest of it had that lovely casual stylish rural French style that evolves rather gets created. We didn’t want to leave.
Last proper day and we had a rare motorway ride all the way up to the tunnel. It was only 120miles - so two hours ish on the motorway or something daft like 5 hours non-motorway according to the Nav. Slow roads indeed.
We managed an earlier tunnel than booked and rocked up at our friends in Dorking, Surrey mid afternoon for beers and food. We decided to stay an extra night and accompany them on the Surrey Artists Open studio tour - basically a long long walk around Dorking visiting local artists studios. Very enjoyable as there’s also lots of pubs in Dorking.
Saturday (today) and a hot ride up the M40 and M6. Ironically this was the hottest day of the trip with the temperature topping out at 29c on the bike’s thermometer most of the way up a very busy M6.
I forgot to note the mileage but about 6500 to 7000 miles. 14 countries incl England. Average fuel 60.9mpg. Average speed : slow. Motorway miles under 1000 and mostly in the uk too. Nights camped 14. Nights away 54. The bill, dunno yet but it should an average out to about £80-£90 a day all in for us both. The Greece and the Balkans were mostly cheap except Croatia which is on a par with Italy and Germany for costs.
It was a great trip and I thoroughly recommend all the Balkan countries to anyone.
Pics tomorrow as I think I’m going to bed shortly.
austin
Well-Known Member
Bike has been fine Bob. A tad underpowered at times but it lugs along nicely enough. Odd times overtaking something big uphill and in not quite enough space it got interesting and needed revving to the redline but most of the time we pootle along at 55mph ish and the world is lovely. It’s the most comfortable bike for us both I’ve ever had. Cool seat cover helps loads though. The screen and noise is my only real bugbear with the bike, although I fiddled with an MRA winglet and eventually found a good position that smoothed the air out as well as a huuuge reduction in noise.
It’s overdue a service by about 1200 miles - tappets are noisy that’s all though. I’ve topped up the oil a couple of times - about 500ml in total. Starts on the button. Gets hot in town and you feel it, when it also starts pinking. 98+ octane E5 fuel helps loads. New tyres just before we left as well as a precautionary new battery as the old one just seemed a bit weak.
It’s a bloody good bike actually. Needs a wash.
It’s overdue a service by about 1200 miles - tappets are noisy that’s all though. I’ve topped up the oil a couple of times - about 500ml in total. Starts on the button. Gets hot in town and you feel it, when it also starts pinking. 98+ octane E5 fuel helps loads. New tyres just before we left as well as a precautionary new battery as the old one just seemed a bit weak.
It’s a bloody good bike actually. Needs a wash.
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austin
Well-Known Member
Credit card
Plus…..
Clothes, shoes, etc in a pannier each in inner bags. Enough for 5-7 days. So not a lot but I still overpacked. Merino and/or bamboo clothing is your non smelly friend here. If we weren’t camping that would have just about it.
One pannier top bag has small stove, small pot, collapsible cups& plates, knifes and small wood board for cutting on, coffee and some emergency food (Biltong and energy bars). No proper cooking ability just brews and warm up tins of stuff or picnic food.
Other pannier top bag has a bikepacking tent in it. 3-man, 30cm pole sections (very short). Ultra lightweight and tiny pack but very very expensive. Only any use in half decent weather.
Top box: sleep mat (I got a bargain Ex display ultralight Exped double Synmat for £40 instead of near £400 oh happy days. Packs up smaller than a single Exped synmat 7), duvet& sheet, inflatable pillows, Helinox chairs, beach towels, small rucksack, maps. Waterproofs in bag on top of lid.
Tank bag: sunglasses, camera, battery packs on charge, plus other odds and sods. Less than half full so Picnic food when we buy it goes in the expanded bag.
Tools under the seat and in the toolbox on the inside of a pannier frame.
It was getting tent and the mat that freed up the space that enabled this to become a partly camping trip. Very basic but plenty comfortable as long it was dry. Although the tent did survive a mega overnight thunderstorm in Croatia just fine.